Cura Brochero, Cordoba Argentina

Our mini-vacation in Cura Brochero, Mina Clavero and Nono

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Last year we didn’t manage to go to Cura Brochero and Mina Clavero, because the Summer was cold and rainy. This year we planned out trip for the end of February.

We had to change a bit the date due to a storm in that region. It turned out to be the last week of the season. Later everything was closed until next Summer.

Cura Brochero

The family hotel we stayed at in Cura Brochero
The family hotel we stayed at in Cura Brochero

This year we stayed at a place where Martin used to stay with his family every year. It is a guest house or hotel, family run, close to the town center. The owner is a nice woman who was ready to help with anything.

Hotel, Cura Brochero
The clocks were made by Martin’s family many years ago 🙂 Drawings were added later

The place itself looked really nice. I liked how they made a “roof” with grapes vines. Everything was clean and tidy. We stayed there for two nights with the idea to spend one day in Cura Brochero, and another one in Mina Clavero.

Main square of Cura Brochero at night
Main square of Cura Brochero at night
Left: the statue of the Saint Cura Brochero at the main square of the town; right: flags of Argentina, Cordoba province and Vatican because St. Cura Brochero was beatified

Cura Brochero is a small town (around 6000 inhabitants) named after an Argentinian Saint – Jose Gabriel del Rosario Brochero. He is also famous as a “Gaucho priest” or a “Cowboy priest”. He was known to travel long distances on a mule.

Church of Nuestra Señora del Tránsito y Santo Cura Brochero
Inside the church of Nuestra Señora del Tránsito y Santo Cura Brochero

Cura Brochero took a special care of poor and sick people. He was taking care of sick people during the epidemic of cholera in 1867.

Up: plates with pleas to St. Cura Brochero; down left: remains of St. Cura Brochero; down right: a skullcap presented by the Pope Francisco to the church
Up: plates with pleas to St. Cura Brochero; down left: remains of St. Cura Brochero; down right: a skullcap presented by the Pope Francisco to the church

People in Argentina, and especially in the province of Cordoba, admire this saint. Every year they walk across the Altas Cumbres mountains by 16 of March to celebrate the feast of Brochero.

The church of Nuestra Señora del Tránsito y Santo Cura Brochero
The church of Nuestra Señora del Tránsito y Santo Cura Brochero

The town has a church of Nuestra Señora del Tránsito y Santo Cura Brochero with the remains of the saint Cura Brochero. People come to this church to ask for help with their health, and just to show their respect and admiration to Cura Brochero.

Swimming

 Panaholma, Cura Brochero, Cordoba, Argentina
Panaholma, Cura Brochero, Cordoba, Argentina, 2018
This is how it looks when the river is low
 Panaholma, Cura Brochero, Cordoba, Argentina, 2018
Panaholma, Cura Brochero, Cordoba, Argentina, 2018

Beside religious part of the travel, there is a nice place to swim. The town has a mountain river called Panaholma with an artificial pool. Last time when we were there, the river was low, so there was not much place to swim. This time we came a couple of days after storm, and the river was high enough.

  Panaholma, Cura Brochero, Cordoba, Argentina, 2020
Panaholma, Cura Brochero, Cordoba, Argentina, 2020
After storm the level of water was way higher
  Panaholma, Cura Brochero, Cordoba, Argentina, 2020
Panaholma, Cura Brochero, Cordoba, Argentina, 2020
You can’t see any bottom, everything is covered with a couple of meters of water

One of Argentina’s national sweets is Alfajores. They are sandwich-cookies with a filling in between. Usually the filling is dulce de leche or fruit jam. Different places across Argentina have their own versions of Alfajores. Cura Brochero is no exception.

Buying sweets in a family store
Buying sweets in a family store with a little Batman 🙂

There is a tiny family run shop where they sell home made Alfajores and pastelitos (pastry with jam mostly). Martin has been buying them there every time when he and his family visited the area. This time was no exception. So far these were the the most tasty that I tried.

Nono

 Los Sauces river, Nono, Cordoba, Argentina
Los Sauces river, Nono, Cordoba, Argentina

Nono is even a smaller town with only 1229 inhabitants. Its name comes from quechua lenguage, originally was ñuñu and means breasts. The place got its name after the two hills nearby (Los Nonos) that rise on the opposite bank of the Los Sauces river.

 Los Sauces river, Nono, Cordoba, Argentina
Los Sauces river, Nono, Cordoba, Argentina
Crystal clear water in Los Sauces river, Nono, Cordoba, Argentina
Crystal clear water in Los Sauces river, Nono, Cordoba, Argentina

The river is super shallow. It is good for children, even babies. The water level does not reach knees, when the river is low. But of course, since it is a mountain area, in rainy times the river grows high and wide.

Mate at the banks of Los Sauces river, Nono, Cordoba, Argentina
Mate at the banks of Los Sauces river, Nono, Cordoba, Argentina
Magical trees at the river banks
Magical trees at the river banks 🙂

After walking in the river we had a mAte at its bank, enjoying the view, the weather and various birds.

The most noticeable building in Nono - the church of San Juan Bautista
The most noticeable building in Nono – the church of San Juan Bautista
Windows in Nono, Cordoba, Argentina
Windows in Nono, Cordoba, Argentina

Later we went to the town center. It was empty due to siesta time.

Poetry in Nono
Poetry in Nono

It was very hot, and there was not much shadows. I liked a lot the architecture and colors of buildings.

Burger Krusty, Nono
Look what we’ve found there! 😀
Colors in Nono, Cordoba, Argentina
Colors in Nono, Cordoba, Argentina

This is one of things I love the most about South America.

 Nono, Cordoba, Argentina
Nono, Cordoba, Argentina
Up: the main square; down: an old bell at the church of San Juan Bautista
Nono, Cordoba, Argentina
Nono, Cordoba, Argentina

After a couple of hours in Nono we went further to our third destination in this trip.

Mina Clavero

Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina
Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina

Mina Clavero is a small city named after a mountain river. In 2019 this river was recognized as one of 7 natural miracles of Argentina. It accumulates several mighty streams that descend from the mountains.

Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina
Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina

The area is very popular among Argentinians for vacations. The river has 14 km of sandy and rocky beaches. The particularities of this region makes it a perfect place for trekking, horseback riding, ATV excursions and 4×4 crossings on different mountain roads with different levels of difficulty.

Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina
The red bridge across Mina Clavero river from the previous picture
Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina
Artificial pool made in the mountain river to control water flow and also to let people swim in a clean and constantly changing water
Artificial pool of Mina Clavero river
Artificial pool of Mina Clavero river
Mina Clavero river
Mina Clavero river being low back in 2018

Back in 2018 we swam in the part of the river with an artificial pool. This time we went to the place called “The Eagle’s Nest”, and it was quite an experience.

Eagle's Nest, Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina
Eagle’s Nest, Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina

Basically, it is a part of the river in the middle of a cliff. It takes a while to reach the river, the path is rocky, so make sure to have good shoes if you decide to visit it. The sun was strong, it was hot, and we craved for swimming.

The Eagle's Nest, Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina
The Eagle’s Nest, Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina
People are jumping from the place that is marked with a star… 25 meters + stones below closer to water…

When we reached the destination, I was shocked. There was a cliff of 25 meters, from where people jumped into water!!! They jumped from lower places, too, but that one was just too much for me.

Entrapment

Mina Clavero river
Mina Clavero river

We were watching those crazy ones who jumped. Sometimes it took a long time for someone to brace themselves and jump. I was happy to just swim along the river. Water was super cold. Super. Cold. But also crystal clear.

https://youtu.be/vJbv1V8dpaI
You can see the waterfall where we went on the background
Eagle's nest, Mina Clavero
The waterfall is marked with a circle

We swam to a little cave and decided to go into it. It was short and had an exit to a small (well, define small) waterfall. The current of the river was strong. I barely walked, fighting it just to stay in a vertical position.

Mina Clavero beginning
This is where Mina Clavero river starts…

We went to the waterfall, had fun standing under it, and then found out that we cannot come back. There was a stone, blocking the way, and I could not get on it to get out of the water. Martin managed to do it, but he could not take me out. Once my feet were off the bottom, I got swiped off with the current. It was sucking my legs under that stone and me under water.

Mountains in Cordoba, Argentina
…and then goes between mountains to the town

It was scary. I am not this type of a person to do extreme sports or swimming. I don’t even jump in the water, even in a pool. This was a stressful situation.

In the end we had to climb all the way up those stones and cliffs to get back to the place where we entered the river. It was enough adventures for that day, so we just swam a bit more to relax and then went back on the road.

Conclusion

Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina
Mina Clavero, Cordoba, Argentina

In one of our previous posts I wrote about the road across Altas Cumbres. It was amazing! the most epic place for mAte so far. We enjoyed a lot the whole trip, the views, the rivers, food, mountains – everything. If you ever get into this part of Argentina, we highly recommend you to visit these place.

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